Professional Beauty : Pro Beauty Mar-Apl 2016
active ingredients by creating an impenetrable film. Purely oil-based products are often incompatible with many moisturisers (which are water plus oil emulsions). A pure facial oil should be lightweight and massaged into the skin thoroughly either as a standalone moisturiser or allowed to fully absorb before applying an additional moisturiser. Oils must be used with caution and applied according to the skin condition of the client. It is also recommended that they be purchased in a properly formulated skincare product and not in their ‘raw ’ state from a grocery store. Food grade oils have a different purity level to cosmetic grade oils. Qualified skin therapists can correctly analyse the type of oil requirements of the client ’s skin. This is particularly important when treating acneic skin and other inflammatory conditions such as psoriasis, eczema and rosacea. Oils are generally recommended as an emollient or occlusive for increased hydration, healing, and for severe flaking and inflammation. Many cosmetic physicians recommend oil-based moisturisers during the healing phase following procedures such as fractional laser, skin needling and chemical peels. Oils exhibit varying stability and have different shelf lives. A rancid oil is basically packed with free radicals so will be of no benefit to the skin. Opt for oils with a longer shelf life such as (e.g. castor, macadamia, jojoba and squalane) and avoid oils that tend to turn rancid quickly (e.g. evening primrose, borage, rosehip). When choosing to add oils to a skin care regimen it should be seen as a supplement and not a basis of a good routine. Cosmeceuticals in the form of vitamins, peptides and biotech ingredients are key when it comes to improving skin health. My advice is to choose oils for specific conditions, check the shelf life and stability and combine them with active ingredients. n OILS AND COMEDOGENIC RATINGS 0 – Will not Clog Pores ‐ safflower oil, shea butter, sunflower oil, argan oil, ceresin wax, hemp seed oil and squalane 1 – Low comedogenicity ‐ castor oil, candelilla wax, carnuba wax, lanolin wax, Calendula oil, Neem oil, Sea Buckthorn oil, Rosehip oil and Pomegranate oil 2 – Moderately low comedogenicity ‐ Almond oil, Apricot kernel oil, Avocado oil, Borage oil, Evening primrose oil, Grape seed oil, Hazelnut oil, Olive oil, Peach kernel oil, Peanut oil, Pumpkin seed oil, Sesame oil,Tamanu oil, Beeswax, Emulsifying wax NF and Jojoba oil (technically a liquid wax) 3 – Moderately comedogenicity ‐ Corn oil, Cottonseed oil, Soybean oil, Shark liver oil, Jojoba oil (sulphated) 4 – Relatively High comedogenicity ‐ Cocoa butter, Coconut butter, Coconut oil, Palm oil and Flax seed (linseed) oil 5 – High comedogenicity ‐ Wheat germ oil skincare FEATURE 17 & 18 JULY 2016 Entry Tickets, Competition Entries and Extended Education Program bookings are available at: www.brisbanehairandbeautyexpo.com.au BIGGER AND BETTER DEDICATED BEAUTY INDUSTRY HIGHLIGHTS AT THE EXPO WILL INCLUDE: • Education seminars by Rae Morris, Jazz Pampling, Mia Connor and more. • Clinical Aesthetics Conference – NEW in 2016 • Compete at the Expo’s live and pre-done Emendee Nail Competition.
Pro Beauty Jan-Feb 2016
Pro Beauty May-Jun 2016